Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Opua: deplated; delayed


        I had plates on GANNET.  
        I did not know that I had plates on GANNET until I removed everything from the Blue Performance Bag above the starboard pipe berth that serves as the galley locker in order to glue it back in place. 
        Gannet has no lockers and few bins.
        This bag, as well as three others, is Velcroed to the smooth inside surface of GANNET’s hull.  Another is screwed into the port forward side of the main bulkhead.  
        The Velcro on the galley bag was coming unstuck, so I used contact cement to reattach it and the bag.
        I never look into that bag, just reach in and fumble around for whatever I need, usually the small bag in which I keep cutlery and a cork screw, or a plastic tumbler, or the china coffee cup that has thus far survived.  So the plates came as a surprise.  
        As you may remember I eat out of a large plastic measuring cup.  I don’t recall that I have ever used the plates, which were also plastic.  I don’t even recall buying them.  Certainly they failed the not having been used for a year standard.  
        I considered for a moment if I might ever need plates, and decided that if I do I will buy paper ones for the occasion.  
        GANNET is plateless.

 ———

        Following the passing of the front, today has been mostly sunny, windy and cool.  About 50°F/10°C last night, which I know to many of you on the wrong side of the Equator would be longed for warmth.
        I rowed ashore this morning without difficulty, but had a hard row back against gusting wind and ebbing tide.
        Rowing is very good for my shoulder.
        The wind is gusting now, perhaps close to twenty knots and GANNET is heeled over and dancing about her mooring.  So I am probably going to give the wind another day to decrease and sail on Thursday, though if it moderates by noon tomorrow I may sail up and anchor off either Pahia or Russell and go ashore to provision.             
        I much prefer anchoring off Russell; but Russell is exposed to winds from the west and southwest, the direction from which it is now blowing.
        Whenever I sail I’ll have the Yellowbrick sending up positions at twenty minute intervals.
        
        Wine and music this sunset will be enjoyed perhaps standing in the companionway, perhaps sitting here at Central.

         I posted this entry, poured some red wine, stood in the companionway and found myself looking at the above.

Opua: deplated; delayed


        I had plates on GANNET.  
        I did not know that I had plates on GANNET until I removed everything from the Blue Performance Bag above the starboard pipe berth that serves as the galley locker in order to glue it back in place. 
        Gannet has no lockers and few bins.
        This bag, as well as three others, is Velcroed to the smooth inside surface of GANNET’s hull.  Another is screwed into the port forward side of the main bulkhead.  
        The Velcro on the galley bag was coming unstuck, so I used contact cement to reattach it and the bag.
        I never look into that bag, just reach in and fumble around for whatever I need, usually the small bag in which I keep cutlery and a cork screw, or a plastic tumbler, or the china coffee cup that has thus far survived.  So the plates came as a surprise.  
        As you may remember I eat out of a large plastic measuring cup.  I don’t recall that I have ever used the plates, which were also plastic.  I don’t even recall buying them.  Certainly they failed the not having been used for a year standard.  
        I considered for a moment if I might ever need plates, and decided that if I do I will buy paper ones for the occasion.  
        GANNET is plateless.

 ———

        Following the passing of the front, today has been mostly sunny, windy and cool.  About 50°F/10°C last night, which I know to many of you on the wrong side of the Equator would be longed for warmth.
        I rowed ashore this morning without difficulty, but had a hard row back against gusting wind and ebbing tide.
        Rowing is very good for my shoulder.
        The wind is gusting now, perhaps close to twenty knots and GANNET is heeled over and dancing about her mooring.  So I am probably going to give the wind another day to decrease and sail on Thursday, though if it moderates by noon tomorrow I may sail up and anchor off either Pahia or Russell and go ashore to provision.             
        I much prefer anchoring off Russell; but Russell is exposed to winds from the west and southwest, the direction from which it is now blowing.
        Whenever I sail I’ll have the Yellowbrick sending up positions at twenty minute intervals.
        
        Wine and music this sunset will be enjoyed perhaps standing in the companionway, perhaps sitting here at Central.

Opua: deplated; delayed


        I had plates on GANNET.  
        I did not know that I had plates on GANNET until I removed everything from the Blue Performance Bag above the starboard pipe berth that serves as the galley locker in order to glue it back in place. 
        Gannet has no lockers and few bins.
        This bag, as well as three others, is Velcroed to the smooth inside surface of GANNET’s hull.  Another is screwed into the port forward side of the main bulkhead.  
        The Velcro on the galley bag was coming unstuck, so I used contact cement to reattach it and the bag.
        I never look into that bag, just reach in and fumble around for whatever I need, usually the small bag in which I keep cutlery and a cork screw, or a plastic tumbler, or the china coffee cup that has thus far survived.  So the plates came as a surprise.  
        As you may remember I eat out of a large plastic measuring cup.  I don’t recall that I have ever used the plates, which were also plastic.  I don’t even recall buying them.  Certainly they failed the not having been used for a year standard.  
        I considered for a moment if I might ever need plates, and decided that if I do I will buy paper ones for the occasion.  
        GANNET is plateless.

 ———

        Following the passing of the front, today has been mostly sunny, windy and cool.  About 50°F/10°C last night, which I know to many of you on the wrong side of the Equator would be longed for warmth.
        I rowed ashore this morning without difficulty, but had a hard row back against gusting wind and ebbing tide.
        Rowing is very good for my shoulder.
        The wind is gusting now, perhaps close to twenty knots and GANNET is heeled over and dancing about her mooring.  So I am probably going to give the wind another day to decrease and sail on Thursday, though if it moderates by noon tomorrow I may sail up and anchor off either Pahia or Russell and go ashore to provision.             
        I much prefer anchoring off Russell; but Russell is exposed to winds from the west and southwest, the direction from which it is now blowing.
        Whenever I sail I’ll have the Yellowbrick sending up positions at twenty minute intervals.
        
        Wine and music this sunset will be enjoyed perhaps standing in the companionway, perhaps sitting here at Central.

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Opua: The Jester Medal; incoming


        Although one could reasonably conclude from a recent entry that I have no modesty, I have hesitated to post a photo of the Jester Medal as being immodest.  However, several readers have asked about the medal, so here it is.
        The medal is large, about three inches/7.62 centimeters in diameter and satisfyingly heavy.  
        The gold ribbon is not attached to the medal, but part of the presentation case.
        Some of you will recall that I am not romantic about boats, but I accepted the medal on behalf of both GANNET and myself, and I believe her name deserves to be on it as well as my own.

———

        I rowed ashore earlier this morning to shower and buy a few things at the general store because we have a gale warning.  I don’t expect gale force winds in Opua, but they may occur in more exposed waters along the coast.
        The morning thus far has been sunny and pleasant, so I checked the rain radar on the excellent New Zealand Met. Service site and found this:



        From Wednesday on the forecast is good and I expect to sail somewhere for a few days.

Saturday, April 11, 2015

Opua: Speech! Speech!

   
        The Ocean Cruising Club awards ceremony was held late last month in London.  Obviously I was here and did not attend.  So the club graciously arranged to have the Jester Medal presented to me at a luncheon in Whangarei yesterday.
        I was asked to prepare a brief acceptance speech that I assume someone read for me in London.  I spoke the words myself here:

        GANNET and I thank the Ocean Cruising Club for awarding us the Jester Medal for 2014.  That this is in a way from one small boat to another is especially pleasing.  
        I have never owned a boat larger than 37’, nor one costing more than a mid-priced car.  Yet I have owned three great boats, and two of them were small.  CHIDIOCK TICHBORNE, a Drascombe Lugger, an undecked 18’ yawl built in Devon; and GANNET, a 24’ ultralight Moore 24 sloop from California.
        I have great affection for small boats which are capable of far more than many expect, with an immediate and intimate experience of the sea—sometimes too intimate.  And as I learned while sailing CHIDIOCK TICHBORNE, once you arrive in port, the view is the same from an 18’ boat as one many times that size, and the mooring charges less.
        GANNET has only two feet of freeboard.  What I like to call her Great Cabin has little more than three free of headroom and a maximum beam of 7’2”.  I am a relatively tall man and can sit upright only on the cabin sole.
        Solving how to live in that space has been an interesting and satisfying exercise.  Thanks in part to technology—I carry more than three hundred books and six hundred albums of music in my iPhone and iPad mini, which are also my chart plotters, I can live indefinitely on GANNET and, by my standards, live well.  I can sail, write, read, listen to music, take photographs.  I can fit every important part of my life aboard, except Carol, my wife, who doesn’t want to fit aboard anyway.
        Once I likened CHIDIOCK TICHBORNE to a small, brave dog:  the terrier, if not the terror of the seas.  GANNET is perhaps most like her namesake birds who I enjoyed watching hunt in late afternoons from the mooring on which I kept my previous boat in The Bay of Islands:  beautiful and, as any who has seen them dive knows, capable of stunning acceleration.
        A sailor is an artist whose medium is the wind.  I wish all of you the joy of creating your own masterpieces.

Friday, April 10, 2015

Opua: differing opinions


        Three readers have written recently to tell me that in the letters section of the current LATITUDE 38, pages 20-22,  Webb Chiles is called both a misguided fool and a national hero.  
        Actually the man who calls me a fool doesn’t know my name and isn’t certain what kind of boat I’m sailing, but has an opinion anyway.
        I replied to one correspondent:

        It goes with the territory.
        On the other hand, it is a point of law that one is entitled to be judged by one’s peers.  I don’t have any.

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Opua: impermanence




        A gust of wind heels GANNET at her mooring.  Not strong wind.  Fifteen knots.  But GANNET is a light boat and it doesn’t take much.
        This is my second successive day not going ashore.  A front is passing through today with occasional rain.  I could have rowed in easily an hour ago, and could make it now though less easily; but there is no need.
        Yesterday was also overcast, but with little wind.
        I scrubbed GANNET’s waterline from the dinghy, hanging onto the gunnel with my bad arm and scrubbing with my good.  GANNET’s low freeboard makes hanging on easier than it was on THE HAWKE OF TUONELA.  And there is nine feet less waterline to scrub on each side.
        I had paid Mike to dive and scrub the bottom just before I returned to GANNET, and although her antifouling is now more than a year and an ocean old, I found only a little weed and slime.  No hard growth.
        This antifouling is International’s Ultra, a hard antifouling I have not used before.  For many years I used ablative paints that wear away.  I like being able to scrub the Ultra vigorously and will apply it again when I next anti-foul later this year or early next.   The disadvantage of hard antifouling is eventual build-up.  Not going to be my problem.  Maybe for GANNET’s next owner.
        My left shoulder held up well to holding on,  so I decided to take advantage of the calm conditions to row out and circumnavigate Pine Tree Island which is in serious need of repair.
       Long time readers may recall the story that early last century a local settler planted seven pine trees on the island, one for each of his children.  For years those pine trees have been all that holds the island together.  Roots of two of the trees have become extensively exposed.  Erosion from a few more storms may see them fall.  Pine Tree Island is doomed.

        On my row I stopped and talked for a while with Gary of MASON BAY.  
        He pointed out that the boat in the lead photograph, named I believe, LITTLE BOAT, circumnavigated the world back in the 70s or 80s from California.  She started with a crew of one and ended with two and a half.  The sailor met a woman in Australia who completed the audacious voyage with him and became pregnant.
        LITTLE BOAT is smaller than GANNET.  More CHIDIOCK TICHBORNE size, though she does have a lid.
        I’m not sure how she got to New Zealand after her circumnavigation.  She, like Pine Tree Island, is in need of repair.
        On my way back to GANNET I made my way to where my old mooring was.  Easy to locate because two other boats that were on nearby moorings when I had HAWKE are still there.  Alas, THE HAWKE OF TUONELA’s mooring is not.  After I sold it back to the marina they decommissioned it.
        After the exercise my shoulder ached some, but not much more than usual.

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Opua: 25; weight loss


        Two days ago I did shoulder exercises.  Some of these involve lifting two to three pound/one kilogram weights which is what my one liter water bottle weighs when full.  Others consist of pulling at various angles against an elastic band, one of which I brought with me, but shock cord would do.  Some, as I have mentioned, require a doorway and aren’t going to happen on GANNET.
        I then went to the foredeck and did my usual workout except for push-ups.  Last week I tried push-ups, not going down nose to deck, but about half way, elbow at right angles.  Thirteen went well.  Number fourteen caused a lightning bolt of pain.
        I tentatively tried push-ups again Monday.  Number fourteen passed without a twinge.  I was still going easily at twenty-five, but decided not to push my luck.
        Now if I were only a half century younger I could again do my age in push-ups.
———

        The weight loss is not mine, but GANNET’s.
        Last week I took the foot pump with me and rowed the newer Avon Redstart to the far dinghy dock, pumped up the old Avon Redstart locked with the fiberglass dinghy in the dinghy rack, and towed the old Avon back out to GANNET where I deflated the newer one to save wear and am using the old.
        The old one is at least fifteen years old and might date from when I bought THE HAWKE OF TUONELA in 1993.  It is still serviceable, and I found myself considering stowing it in the stern and taking it with me when I sail from New Zealand.  In my opinion Avon Redstarts are the best inflatable to row for a one or two person crew, and I have been told that Zodiac, who bought Avon, are no longer making them.
        But then I thought:  no.  I like to have back-ups for essential systems, but two dinghies on a Moore 24 is excessive.  
        In a natural progression I found myself wondering if everything that has found its way onto GANNET is necessary.  
        I have long had a general rule that if I can go a year without using something, I can go on not using it and give or throw it away.  There are exceptions such as a second anchor.  But stuff insidiously accumulates.  So I am initiating a complete inspection of everything aboard GANNET.
        I began by taking the storm jib that came with GANNET to Roger Hall at North Sails to have the hanks replaced with a luff tape to fit the Furlex furling gear. This has enabled me to dispose of an old jib that I have been keeping as a spare.  In the unlikely event that something happens to GANNET’s jib that I can’t repair at sea, I can use the storm jib to sail to windward and the asymmetrical off the wind.
        I also threw away the Fox LV2 bluetooth speaker which had rusted.  Two remaining bluetooth speakers are enough, one Bose for superior sound, the other EcoXgear waterproof.
        And, perhaps sadly to traditionalists, the sextant is going to go, probably becoming a condo wall decoration.  I haven’t taken a sight with it since sailing from San Diego and there are now four chartplotters on this tiny boat:  laptop; iPad; iPad mini; iPhone; as well as seven or eight other GPS devices.  They aren’t all going to fail.  
        If the entire GPS system goes down I’ll just have to do it the really old fashioned way and dead reckon.

Sunday, April 5, 2015

Opua: a choice of pain and decision at St. Helena; others



        Sitting at Central this morning I needed to get my iPhone which was behind me on the v-berth.  I turned to my right, but couldn’t see it with my blind right eye.  I turned to my left, but couldn’t reach it with my torn left shoulder.  I smiled and levered myself up and around 180°, a maneuver on GANNET of Olympic gymnastic quality, and able to both see and reach the iPhone, picked it up, before turning back 180°, now even more difficult with the phone in one hand.
        People ask if my shoulder is good enough to sail offshore.  I think it is, assuming it can stand the occasional unexpected shock load, and there is no way to know that until it happens.
        I have two illustrated pages of maintenance exercises, eighteen in all, given me by my physical therapist, all of which are difficult to do on GANNET and some impossible.  Three call for use of a doorway.  As you will have observed GANNET doesn’t have a doorway.  However, life aboard is pretty good maintenance in itself.  I use the arm.  I reach.  I row.  I pull.  I lift.  And I improvise my own exercises, such as doing curls with the trash bag as I carry it to the dumpster ashore.
        While I have discomfort, sometimes increasing into pain, it is pain I can live with.  What I have is a choice of pain:  the pain I have and know or the pain of surgery and six months recovery.   Something may happen to change my mind, but I am inclined to keep with the pain I know, rather than spend the last half of this year with doctors and going through physical therapy again.

———

        Several readers have asked about my plans.
        Assuming I don’t have surgery, I will spend two more months later this year on GANNET, probably mid-September to mid-November.
        I’ll return to GANNET in March of 2016, sail west for Australia around the beginning of May, enjoy my favorite coastal passage in the world inside The Great Barrier Reef from Cairns to Cape York for the fourth time in my fourth different boat, over to Darwin, out to Cocos, on probably to Mauritius, and be in Durban, South Africa by September or October.
        From Durban I will continue around to Cape Town, then up to Namibia, which I haven’t visited since 1988, and out to St. Helena.
        At St. Helena I will have to make a decision:  southwest to the Falklands and an attempt at Cape Horn from the east; northwest to the Caribbean and the Panama Canal.  
        Bookmakers are wisely not quoting odds.

———

        New Zealand went off summer time yesterday.  
        I’m glad.  It was still pitch dark at 7 a.m. before the change.
        Last evening after an earlier sunset, I stuck my head through the companionway just as the full moon was rising.
        Here is the view I saw to the west this morning.

        I shot both scenes with iPhone and Nikon AW1.  I am beginning to learn the strengths and weaknesses of the iPhone 6.  The moon rise was taken with the Nikon.  It was beyond the iPhone’s capabilities.  The moon set, though, is from the iPhone.  I like it better than the shots I got with the Nikon.
        Although the Nikon AW1 is small, the iPhone’s greatest advantage is portability.  On GANNET the Nikon’s is being waterproof.  It also has interchangeable lenses.

———

        On the ‘joy-in’ weekend, Tom was sailing, snorkeling and relaxing in the British Virgin Islands.  He then flew home to New England where he dug a path through the snow to his boat to start to prepare her for a May 11 launch.

        On the evening last week I mentioned I looked up at the gibbous moon, Jim wrote that he went sailing on an Arizona lake after dark, under that same moon.  He was the only one sailing on the lake, possibly the only one sailing then in the State of Arizona, and found great peace.

        In England, Bill found peace, too, yesterday sitting on his boat watching the sun set, sipping white wine, playing his guitar.  He mentions wondering about drinking alone.  Doesn’t bother me.  Solo sailors drink alone or they don’t drink at all. 
        I am following two voyages, or will be when the second resumes tomorrow.  Both are, I believe, first time offshore passages.
        I’ve mentioned Dan and Audrey on COYOTE before.  Last report they have close to 40 knots of wind and look to be about a third of the way from Mexico to the Marquesas.
        I wish both crews fine passages.

        If you read of the man rescued after 66 days at sea you probably saw photos taken by Steve Earley who is a news photographer in Norfolk, Virginia.
        Of the rescued man, I have no comment other than the story as reported raises questions in my mind.
        But Steve’s photos reminded me of what I consider one of his greatest, which I ran here some time ago.  
        It is worth viewing again.  


Friday, April 3, 2015

Opua: sailed to Paradise (Bay)



        I sailed off the mooring under mainsail at 1130 on Wednesday with an ebbing tide and light wind from the southwest. 
        The Torqeedo was in place on the outboard bracket, but tilted out of the water.  I thought that if the wind died completely, I would use it to reach an anchorage, but didn’t need to.  The dinghy was deflated and stowed in the aft end of the cockpit.  As it happened, I didn’t need it either.
        Spinning GANNET in a half circle, I unfurled the jib and she began gurgling along at three knots.  I hand steered past the ferry crossing, then engaged the new Raymarine.  I have yet to complete the wiring of the test tiller pilot. 
        It was very pleasant, if not exciting.  Light wind, sunny day, temperature in the 70sF/low 20sC.  I wanted pleasant, not exciting.
        After an hour, when GANNET was off Russell, a sea breeze reached us from the northeast and we went from a broad reach to close hauled.  A better wind angle in light air and the little sloop began to make five and six knots, matching the wind speed.  We also began passing other, bigger boats who weren’t.
        The glorious weather all week, combined with long New Zealand Easter holidays, made for an unusual number of boats on the water and anchorages more crowded than usual.  Most of the boats, even those with masts, were under power.
        Looking at the Yellowbrick track now I see that one hour intervals are too long for a daysail.  We sailed almost to Moturoa Island before tacking to the east and Te Rawhiti Inlet.  And then as the wind in the inlet veered, slow tacked up it in smooth water, passing the Lagoon at Roberton Island which was too crowded, and two bigger boats that to their credit were trying to sail.  GANNET is a jewel.
        I knew there would be room at Paradise Bay on Urupukapuka Island, which can probably hold a hundred boats and where I always anchor much farther out than anyone else.  And there was.  Only three boats, all anchored right off the small beach.
        My desire to have everything ready in advance in this case caused me to make an error in judgement and furl the jib a half mile from where I wanted to anchor.  Once I had done that I placed the anchor rode bag and the anchor at the bow and couldn’t easily unfurl the jib again without moving them.  It took me a half hour, tacking slowly under mainsail alone in ever weakening wind to cover that last half mile and go forward and let go the Spade anchor in 20’/6 meters of water.  
        All but 20’ of GANNET’s rode is line.  All chain is better, but she can’t carry the weight.  So I need to veer more scope and she needs more room in which to swing.  In that light wind, I snubbed the rode first at 60’/18 meters to set the anchor, then slowly let out another 60’ and cleated it.  GANNET being light and low profile is easy on anchors.  There didn’t seem any chance of more wind that night; and if there was, it would wake me and I could let out more rode.

        Paradise Bay is protected from the east; but the reason I like being there is the open view to the west in late afternoon and evening.  Ashore there is only a small beach surrounded by impenetrable bush.  The bush has been cleared above another cove just to the north and you can land there and walk up to the crest.  I never have.  Perhaps I should.
        The anchor went down at 1600 hours.  Five hours to sail a route of thirteen miles, though tacking we had sailed farther. 
        I poured myself an iceless gin and tonic, sat on deck, listened to music, and watched the sunset behind islands and later the moon rise over Urupukapuka.

        The anchor came up clean Thursday morning with just a few pieces of weed wrapped around the line.  There was a little more wind than the day before, but it was easy to pull GANNET hand over hand up to the anchor and no strain on my left shoulder.  With lots of room around me, I gybed the mainsail, engaged the tiller pilot, returned the rode to its deployment bag and lowered both bag and anchor through the forward hatch onto one of the failed plastic curtains I had made for around the companionway.  At least I had found some use for them in keeping the v-berth clean.
        I didn’t have a plan or a destination.
        I let the tiller pilot steer as we headed north between islands.  Once we emerged from Urupukapuka’s lee, the wind increased by a knot or two, perhaps to as much as seven knots; and I let GANNET continue north at six and seven knots on a beam reach until we were almost to Cape Wiwiki.  
        There were wavelets in the open bay.  GANNET even took some spray over the bow from one or two.
        I gybed farther north than the Yellowbrick track shows and turned us southwest, thinking I might check out Roberton again, or maybe anchor off Russell.
        We were on a broad reach.  Conditions were perfect for the asymmetrical, but I wasn’t that ambitious and just sat on deck in my Sportaseat and enjoyed the sunshine and the sail.
        In the middle of the bay we passed a small open aluminum power boat that New Zealanders call ‘tinnies’ with a man about my age fishing.  I had the depthsounder on and was impressed that he was anchored in 115’/35 meters of water. 
        We were within easy speaking distance.
        He called over to ask what my boat is.
        I told him.
        He said, “Pretty boat.”
        A little further on we almost ran down some gannets.  I didn’t see them behind the jib until they took flight when we were within a few feet.  Perhaps they thought big sister was coming to join them.  By the time I ducked below and grabbed a camera they were distant.

        I thought about turning for Roberton, but I didn’t do anything.  I thought about anchoring at Russell and rowing ashore for an ice cream cone, but I didn’t do anything except trim the sails as the wind deflected off the hills.
        I did decide that I really should use the Torqeedo as we neared Opua, so I lowered it into the water and attached the tiller handle, lowered and furled the mainsail, furled the jib just north of the ferry crossing and powered back to our mooring, which I picked up at 1430.
        I saw another gannet high in the air near Russell.
        I learned that neither of my Torqeedo batteries will any longer take a full change.  One stops at 89%.  One 81%.  They are supposed to have a five year life.  One is four years old.  One three.  I never use more than about 10% anyway.
        I look up often at the masthead tell tail.  It is good to know that the new one is telling me the truth.
        My shoulder held up well except for one painful jolt it took when the mainsail collapsed and filled on a power boat wake.
        I had a good time.