Thursday, January 12, 2017

Durban: a difficult transition

       I am surrounded by chaos and cockroaches.  The chaos is all too visible.  The cockroaches not.  I have seen three since I came aboard yesterday noon and one may have run across my hand last night.  I killed one and sent bug spray in the direction of the fleeing others.
        It is now 6 a.m. Friday morning.  My second cup of not bad instant coffee is at hand.  Bach’s ‘Well tempered Clavier’ is playing on the Megabooms.  So the world is not a total loss, though one of my duffle bags may be.
       The flights back were worse even than usual, due to a fidgeting child beside me, a medical emergency necessitating a landing at Ankara, Turkey to offload a middle-aged man who apparently had a heart attack, unnecessarily complicated procedures at Dubai, pure duration, and that Emirates Air, which generously allows two free checked bags, ungenerously put one of mine on the wrong airplane.  I am told it will show up today.  I hope so for it contains boat supplies that I cannot replace easily, or at all, in South Africa.  It also contains my razor and I haven’t shaved for three days and my face itches.
       GANNET is in reasonable condition for having been neglected for three months.  Insignificant mold.  Only a few drops of water in the bilge.  Batteries charged.  But she looks forlorn, dirty, and needs cleaning and painting and organizing.
        Almost all zippers on storage bags are frozen.  So far with the aid of WD40 I’ve freed them. 
        After dark last night I found that two battery operated cabin lights have died and I had not thought to put the one remaining LuminAid out to charge, so I was reduced to a head lamp and a solar flashlight that can also be charged with a hand crank.  Three or four new LuminAids are also in the lost bag.
       Light rain forced hatches to be closed last night, but after a hot afternoon, the night was not uncomfortable.  I slept from about 6 p.m. to midnight, then intermittently until 3 a.m. when I read and waited for dawn.
        My immediate goal is to impose order on the cabin chaos and hope my lost bag arrives.

Monday, January 9, 2017

Evanston: officially harmless; classes: peasant and priestly; stress; not used up; gone


        My flight to Dubai leaves tomorrow evening.  Now that I am 75 I will not have to remove my shoes at the TSA inspection point.  I am officially harmless.

————

         As an undergraduate more than fifty years ago I wrote a paper with the deliberately provocative title, ‘The Peasant Class’ which argued persuasively enough to get me an A that throughout human history the mass of our species provided unskilled muscle power and a gene pool, and neither of these was any longer necessary.  I might have been slightly ahead of my time, but that time is now.
        Recently I read that 40% of current jobs will not exist in twenty years, and yesterday in a NY TIMES article about continuing mob influence on the New York waterfront, it was mentioned that a hundred years ago there were 40,000 longshoremen working in the harbor, now there are less than 4,000 and that number will continue to decrease.
        Certainly new jobs will come into existence to offset in part those lost.  An ex-longshoreman can become a Uber driver, but probably not a brain surgeon and perhaps not a computer programer.  
        Numbers are not needed for the gene pool any longer either.  A few homo sapiens have the skill to design the rest of us.  I’m rather glad I will not be around for that.  I doubt any committee would design a Webb Chiles.
        The primary function of priestly classes has always been to interface between the illiterate masses and the god.  In our age the godhead is the computer and the priestly class are those who can write code or direct those who do.  Most of us are as functionally illiterate of this language as peasants were literally illiterate in the Middle Ages.
        As I postulated a half century ago, most homo sapiens are obsolete, and I’m not sure how long those who aren’t will continue to put up with us.

————

        Two people wrote that stress in the workplace is as unhealthy as being sedentary.  Though there is evidence that movement helps alleviate stress, I agree.  I’ve known stress, but not that of the workplace since 1974.  Some of you may recall my writing the following not long ago:

 People often say I’m crazy.  This is a pure failure of the imagination.  Since 1974 I have spent zero minutes grid locked on a freeway commuting to or from work.  I have attended no team meetings and no conferences.  I have never been called into the boss’s office.  I have never been laid off or even threatened to be.  I have seen the sun rise from the sea thousands of times and watched it set while listening to music as my boat sailed toward darkness.  I have sipped wine and whisky and watched diving birds.  And some of the most charming, clever and beautiful women of two generations have shared their lives with me.  So, who’s crazy?

————

        Between San Diego and Hawaii on GANNET’s first ocean passage, I wrote:

        Old man stands in companionway of small sloop.  One very weathered hand holds lightly onto a halyard stopper.  The other a jib winch.  A big grin is on the old man’s face as he watches a small sloop rush though the ocean, little more than an arm’s length away.  And because he is precisely where he is.
        Use yourself up, old man.  Use yourself up.

        Last week I was asked why, after compiling so great a body of work, I continue.  My answer was simple:  I’m not yet used up.

————

        I’m not going to explain the above photo, beyond saying that you are looking at a semi-frozen Lake Michigan through the window behind me and that it was taken this year.  An explanation may come eventually. 
        Today I dusted, vacuumed, cleaned the kitchen, mopped and waxed the hardwood floors.  Tomorrow morning I’ll do the bathrooms.
        I’m out of here.
        Find joy.  I will.

Friday, January 6, 2017

Evanston: joy; found; betrayal


        An article in THE GUARDIAN the other day with the fetching title, ‘Lycra leggings - the final step in the evolution of a running fanatic’ included these  observations about joy:  
        All of which leads us to the final phase, the confirmation, the apotheosis. What’s the one indisputable hallmark of the true convert? The classic giveaway? Simple. It’s joy. Yup. Nothing more complicated than that. It’s that tingle you get as you lace up your shoes. It’s that buzz when you break into your rhythm, when you hit your groove. It’s that exhilaration at seeing the end. It’s a joy that is deep and certain. Sometimes euphoric, but usually not. It’s a joy that recharges and revives, re-energises and repairs. Long after your run is done, it’s there, lingering on. Hang up your boots and it clings on just the same. By their joy, you shall know them. 
        I don’t think most people experience enough joy, and many none.  I think you must seek it, although sometimes it will spontaneously come to you, as when I stick my head out GANNET’s hatch and find a sky and sea of ethereal beauty.  I don’t think it possible to have too much.   I find joy in the sight of Carol.  I trust I will find joy in the Atlantic Ocean this year.
        I wish you joy.
        (The entire article can be found here.)

————

        You may recall that last month I mentioned that Steve Earley had come across a line attributed to me that I did not remember writingIf a sailor doesn’t learn anything more from the sea than how to reef a sail, the voyage wasn’t worth making.
        Yesterday another friend brought the Apologia at the beginning of THE OCEAN WAITS to my attention and I find that the above line is the third sentence.  It is a good line.  I’m pleased that I really wrote it.
        An ‘apologia’ is not an apology, but a defense of one’s ideas, actions and, most famously by John Henry Newman, life.  I learned the word reading his Apologia pro Vita Sua in a college English class.

————

        One of my oldest friends, who is in fact three months younger than I, but here I mean ‘oldest’ in terms of how long we have known one another, noted in a recent email that I am the only one of her friends, and including herself, who is not facing a life threatening disease.  A sobering and saddening thought.  Time and chance happens to us all, but not equally.
        In this I might just be lucky and have won the genetic lottery, but that I have continued to use my body hard and didn’t spend forty years sitting behind a desk may have helped.  We are meant to be hunter/gatherers, not office workers.  It is an axiom of history that all revolutions are betrayed.  By making us sedentary the agricultural revolution a few millennia ago, which is the basis for our societies and culture, betrays us.

————


        The photo has nothing to do with any of this.  I just miss New Zealand.

Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Evanston: bookkeeping and bit more

        I did my full work out only 53 times last year, the third lowest total since I started keeping records in 2004.  The other two were during the second year of my fifth circumnavigation and the first year of this one.   That means I did 8170 push-ups and crunches in 2016.  Hardly half of what I have done in other years.  Sailing oceans seriously interferes with work outs.  Sailing oceans is real.  Work outs are substitutes.
        I did my full work out today, though I am certain that this, too, will be a low number year.

———

        Books read July through December:

  THE FAR ARENA   Richard Ben Sapir
SAPIENS   Yuval Noah HarariWe
BLACK FRIDAYS   Michael Sears
BARKSKINS   Annie Proulx
CIDER WITH ROSIE   Laurie Lee
STILLWATER SMITH  Frank Roderus
MARCO POLO   John Man
THE POLISH OFFICER   Alan Furst
GREY WOLF, GREY SEA   E.B. Gasaway
DUSK   James Salter
IN THE KINGDOM OF ICE   Hampton Sides
A LITTLE LARGER THAN THE ENTIRE UNIVERSE   Fernando Pessoa
TINSELTOWN   William J. Mann
THE CHOUANS   Honore de Balzac
DON’T POINT THAT THING AT ME   Kyril Bonfiglioli
THREE CROOKED KINGS   Matthew Condon
IN THE DISTANCE, AND AHEAD IN TIME   George Zebrowski
END GAME   Frank Brady
NEVER CRY WOLF   Farley Mowat
THE GATE OF ANGELS   Penelope Fitzgerald
THE CIVIL WAR Vol. 1   Shelby Foote
A DRINK BEFORE THE WAR   Dennis Lehane
THE CIVIL WAR Vol. 2   Shelby Foote
BURNING THE DAYS  James Salter
ROWING FOR MY LIFE   Kathleen Saville
BRIEF ENCOUNTERS WITH CHE GUEVARA   Ben Fountain
GERTRUDE   Hermann Hesse
BILLY LYNN’S LONG HALFTIME WALK   Ben Fountain
THE STORY OF SEX   Philippe  Brenot, Laetitia Coryn
REGENERATION  Pat Barker
THE EYE IN THE DOOR   Pat Barker
THE GHOST ROAD   Pat Barker
THE COLLECTED POEMS   Wilfred Owen 
LETTERS OF NOTE Vol. 1  Shaun Usher
LETTERS OF NOTE Vol. 2  Shaun Usher
THE INFERNO   Dante Alighieri   translated John Cardi  
THE RESCUE   Joseph Conrad
NO TURN UNSTONED   Diana Rigg

        Of these I read more than half during the fifty-five day passage from Darwin to Durban.
        Of these most are excellent books.  The greatest new discovery for me by far was Pat Barker’s REGENERATION TRILOGY, as in music the greatest discovery was Leonard Cohen,  whom I discovered only when he died.  May others have that experience of me, though my death will almost certainly go unnoticed.

————


        I love Carol.   I love being with her.  We’ve had a really great time over the holidays when she was off work.  But I love knowing that the beauty and purity of the open ocean are before me, and that I will again be on GANNET as she sings across the sea.

Sunday, January 1, 2017

Evanston: 2017

        During the past few weeks I have encountered many articles online and comments on television proclaiming that 2016 was a terrible year.  One, I think in the NY TIMES, was headed:  Worst. Year. Ever.
        All of which merely prove astonishing ignorance of history.
        These opinion pieces are, of course, a consequence of the liberal bias of the media—just because conservatives make that claim, doesn’t necessarily mean it isn’t true—and 2016 was indeed a bad year for liberals.  It was a good year for many others, including Donald Trump and his supporters, and a great one for Chicago Cubs fans.  
        2016 was a good, though in some ways difficult year for me.  I became 75 years old, which I find oddly pleasing.  And I sailed GANNET exactly as I planned 9,000 miles from New Zealand to South Africa without as far as I know any significant damage.  That was hard.  My recollection of those four months is of too little wind or too much, with little  good sailing.  I find myself wondering if I found the sailing hard because of my age.  Certainly I am not at 75 what I was at 35 or even 65, but I believe it can be quantified that I am still a strong and tough old man, and I like to believe that anyone of any age would have found last year’s sailing on GANNET difficult.  There is no way to know.  No one else has ever sailed a Moore 24 that far or made a single passage in one of anywhere near 6,000 miles.
        This year’s plan is more flexible.
        If all goes well, I may complete the voyage and be back in San Diego by June or July.  That would require sailing 11,000 miles in four or five months, which might be too much, and I will not be disappointed if I am delayed and don't make it through Panama before the hurricane season off the west coast of Mexico and have to lay GANNET up somewhere, or spend part of the summer sailing her on the east coast of the United States.

--------

        I am back on GANNET in twelve days.
        In my absence, I am told that the spray hood has been fitted, the replacement masthead wind unit has been installed, along with brackets to prevent the Tides Marine mainsail luff track from pulling away from the mast, and cleats fitted to the mast for reef tack lines.
        In addition to provisioning, here is my to-do list before I can sail:

              haul and antifoul
              replace bow nav lights
              replace forward hatch hinge
              cockpit leaks
              replace jib furling line
              re-coat foul weather gear seams
              touch up rub rail, cockpit paint
              paint deck
              install cleats for spray hood
              sheet to tiller cockpit wear

        A last item on the list won’t be done:  new Torqeedo battery.  They don’t sell them in South Africa and cannot be carried on airlines, even in checked baggage.
         I am looking forward to 2017, to being on GANNET and sailing up the South Atlantic.
        I hope it will be a year of beauty and joy for us all.

Thursday, December 29, 2016

Evanston: movies and shoes

        Through a combination of holidays and vacation days Carol has time off from before Christmas until after New Year’s and we have been watching more movies than usual. 
        Woody Allen’s latest, CAFE SOCIETY, is good.  I grew tired of him mid-career, but his latest movies are better, though as Carol observed, the main character in CAFE SOCIETY is a young Woody Allen played by a different actor.
        CITIZEN FOUR showing Edward Snowden at the very moments he was giving his information to journalists of THE GUARDIAN in Hong Kong is historically important. 
        When I first read George Orwell’s 1984 the date was more than twenty years in the future.  Now it is more than thirty years in the past.  
        CITIZEN FOUR proves that the Orwellian government surveillance state is no longer the future, but the present.  One can only wonder how future Presidents will use this power.
        But by far the best movies we have seen are THE READER and MERU, both available for free streaming with Amazon Prime in the U.S.  I don’t know about elsewhere, but they are worth seeking out.
        Larry who told me about THE READER, a 2008 film, one of the years I was making my fifth circumnavigation on THE HAWKE OF TUONELA, stars Ralph Fiennes and Kate Winslet, who won an Academy Award for best actress for her performance, advised me not to read any reviews of the movie, just to watch it.  Good advice.  Carol caught on to the key to the plot before I did, one of the pleasures of marrying a woman who has a great and different intelligence than your own.
        MERU may be the best mountain climbing movie I have ever seen.  I don’t climb mountains.  Don’t want to.  Am afraid of heights for reasons I have explained here before.  (For those of you who don’t know, my father committed suicide by jumping from the eleventh floor of the Mark Twain Hotel.)  But I think I understand mountain climbing and believe that my sailing has more in common with a few purist climbers than it has with most sailors.
        MERU is about the truest of the true. Or almost. One of the true told a woman he loved that he would give up climbing.  I never told Carol I would give up sailing.  And the woman he married, the widow of his former climbing partner, knew better and accepted reality, though she says, only half in jest, “I might have done better to marry a cowboy.”
        In the film is related a process of climbers mentoring others.  Take this how you will:  no one mentored me.  I created myself.  I stand as alone as Dante's peak of Purgatory in the Southern Hemisphere, not at all a bad analogy. 
        I have total admiration for the men in this film whose attitudes and even some equipment I share.  On the side of a mountain they cooked on a JetBoil as I do at sea level.  I also have total admiration for the wife who said she might have done better marrying a cowboy.
        Most of you reading this are sailors.  You can learn a lot about sailing oceans by watching MERU.  

——

        Imagine spending your life trying to devise self-lacing shoes.

Monday, December 26, 2016

Evanston: the death of Ulysses and Penelope's Song and Ithaca, illinois

        Translation is a fine and difficult art as well as a great public service.  I just finished reading Dante’s INFERNO for the third or fourth time.  On this occasion in the fine John Ciardi translation.  
        I had forgotten that Ulysses is in the eighth circle of Hell, one reserved for those whose sin was fraud.  Ulysses was guilty of other sins as well, but his primary one was the Trojan Horse.  He and the others dwelling in that circle have been turned into eternal pillars of flame.
        Homer leaves Ulysses upon his return to Ithaca after his ten year voyage home from Troy after the ten year Trojan War, an extremely slow VMG (velocity made good.)  Dante, as did his fellow poets, Tennyson and Kazantzakis, did not believe restless Ulysses stayed there.
        Here is Ciardi’s version of the end of Canto XXVI in which Ulysses and his few remaining loyal men sail through the Strait of Gibraltar, then south for five months, the Pole star touching then sinking below the horizon as they cross the Equator.  This was an impressive feat of imagination by Dante, who died in 1321, more than a hundred years before any European sailor crossed the Equator into the Southern Hemisphere.
        In the first line ‘it’ refers to the double pillar of flame in which Ulysses resides with his co-conspirator, Diomede.

"When I left Circe," it said, "who more than a year 
detained me near Gaeta long before 
Aeneas came and gave the place that name, 
not fondness for my son, nor reverence 
for my aged father, nor Penelope's claim 
to the joys of love, could drive out of my mind 
the lust to experience the far-flung world 
and the failings and felicities of mankind. 

I put out on the high and open sea 
with a single ship and only those few souls  
who stayed true when the rest deserted me. 

As far as Morocco and as far as Spain 
I saw both shores; and I saw Sardinia 
and the other islands of the open main. 

I and my men were stiff and slow with age 
when we sailed at last into the narrow pass 
where, warning all men back from further voyage, 
Hercules' Pillars rose upon our sight. 
Already I had left Ceuta on the left; 
Seville now sank behind me on the right. 

'Shipmates,' I said, 'who through a hundred thousand 
perils have reached the West, do not deny 
to the brief remaining watch our senses stand 
experience of the world beyond the sun. 
Greeks ! You were not born to live like brutes,
but to press on toward manhood and recognition!' 

With this brief exhortation I made my crew 
so eager for the voyage I could hardly 
have held them back from it when I was through; and turning our stem toward morning, our bow toward night, 
we bore southwest out of the world of man; 
we made wings of our oars for our fool's flight. 

That night we raised the other pole ahead 
with all its stars, and ours had so declined 
it did not rise out of its ocean bed.

Five times since we had dipped our bending oars 
beyond the world, the light beneath the moon 
had waxed and waned, when dead upon our course 
we sighted, dark in space, a peak so tall 
I doubted any man had seen the like. 

Our cheers were hardly sounded, when a squall 
broke hard upon our bow from the new land: 
three times it sucked the ship and the sea about 
as it pleased Another to order and command. 
At the fourth, the poop rose and the bow went down
till the sea closed over us and the light was gone." 
        The peak was the Mountain of Purgatory.  In Dante’s geography, the Southern Hemisphere is all water except for that peak which rises from the sea at the point directly opposite Jerusalem.

        In doing some research on Dante after finishing the Ciardi translation, I came upon an even more recent one by Clive James that I liked enough to buy as well.  It includes all three parts of THE DIVINE COMEDY.  I don’t recall reading PURGATORY or HEAVEN before.
        Here in Clive James’s version of the death of Ulysses.

“When I left Circe, having lived with her
More than a year in Italy, before
Aeneas got there, no love for my son,
No duty to my father, and what’s more
No love I owed Penelope—the one
Who would have been most glad—could overcome
In me the passion that I had, to gain
Experience of the world, and know the sum
Of virtue, pleasure, wisdom, vice and pain.
Once more I set out on the open sea,
With just one ship, crewed by my loyal men,
The stalwart who had not deserted me.
As far as Spain I saw both shores, and then
Morocco, and Sardinia, and those
Numberless islands that the sea surrounds.
But men grow old and slow as the time goes,
And so did we, and so we reached the bounds
Of voyaging, that narrow outlet marked
By Hercules so nobody should sail
Beyond, and anybody thus embarked
Knows, by those pillars, he is sure to fail.
Seville on my right hand, I left behind
Ceuta on my left. ‘Brothers,’ I said,
‘Dangers uncounted and of every kind
Fit to make other sailors die of dread
You have come through, and you have reached the west,
And now our senses fade, their vigil ends:
They ask to do the easy thing, and rest.
But in the brief time that remains, my friends,
Would you deny yourselves experience
Of that unpeopled world we’ll find if we
Follow the sun out into the immense
Unknown? Remember now your pedigree.
You were not born to live as brutes. Virtue
And knowledge are your guiding lights.’ I gave
With these words such an impulse to my crew
For enterprise that I could not, to save
My life, have held them back. We flew
On oars like wings, our stern, in that mad flight,
Towards the morning. Always left we bore.
Stars of the other pole we saw at night,
And ours so low that from the ocean floor
It never once arose. Five times the light
Had kindled and then quenched beneath the moon
Since first we ventured on our lofty task,
When we could see a mountain, though not soon
Could see it clearly: distance was a mask
That made it dim. But it was high, for sure:
Higher than anything I’d ever seen,
It climbed into the sky. Who could be more
Elated than we were, had not we been
Plunged straight away into deep sorrow, for
The new land gave rise to a storm that struck
Our ship’s forepart. Three times the waters led
Us in a circle. Fourth time, out of luck.
Stern high, bow low, we went in. Overhead
Somebody closed the sea, and we were dead.

        By chance the other afternoon I was listening to the Canadian, Loreena Mckennitt, sing ‘Penelope’s Song.’  Penelope being Ulysses faithful and long suffering wife.
        And if you care to make the leap, you can tie this all together with ‘Ithaca Illinois.’
        Some sailors still leave their wives “to follow the sun into the immense unknown.”